![]() This summer we had weeks of abnormally hot sun, zero humidity and no rain, so it cured quickly. It all depends on factors such as humidity, how much sun you get and how long you "bake" it in the sun. In the past it has taken almost two weeks. This summer my M108 cured in just 4 days. The trick with rustoleum red metal primer is knowing when its "cured" before painting over it. I could hit them up with por 15 if they come through again, but it took 10 years the first time, so I'm confident they will be fine. The rust spots that came through were in your typical spots on the bumper, bed and fenders. Thanks all for the wealth of knowledge I have picked up here on steelsoldiers.Ĭlick to expand.No worries! I have a deuce that I painted with behr over rustoleum red metal primer over 10 years ago and last summer I touched up a few rust spots that came through. The mirrors and fender flares Are plastic.Īny suggestions for the plastic mirrors and fender flares? I hope the GCI and bulldog are compatible and can be used as I did above. I'll be trying the bulldog adhesive promoter for the mirrors and fender flares and using the 4:1.5 mentioned above. Topcoat: I used GCI tan color with a 4:1.5 mix With Xylene, and majic catalyst (hardner) for enamel sold at tractor supply.Ī week later it's Awesome. After shooting the primer, I let it sit for 24 hours and kept it in direct sunlight.Īfter 24 hours It was scratchable and I used a red scuff pad sold at orileys. Keep in mind I shot it at 7 am when the sun was starting to come out but It was parked under a cover. Second, and third coat with 10 minutes in between. 1st coat was applied very light, 10 minute wait. ![]() Used almost a whole gallon for the entire truck. Then without scuffing I used the same mix mentioned below that I used for the cab and bed.īed and Cab I used: the red Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer sold at Lowes by the gallon. I used self etching primer (grey) in the spray can sold at auto zone then used Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer over that 24 hours later. Ranch Hand front And rear bumpers I sand blasted both using 400lbs of black diamond media (coal slag) sold at Northern Tools. The other 15% I took it down to the grey stuff under the topcoat and feathered it so I couldnt feel the transition. I started with 40 grit to get to bare metal, moved up to 80 grit, then 180, then 220 to smooth it out to glass then changed my mind and took it back to 180 so the primer could have something to hang on to. The orginal paint was in sorry shape where the sun hit it since 1997 (97 cummins 2500 farm truck). Using a orbital 6" sander I took it down to the bare metal for 85% of what I painted. I used a 1.7 tipped Black Widow (Harbor Freight) HPLV gun. I used the same mix for both the cab and bed. The bed 1 week apart from the cab and wanted to share with y'all what worked for me in the South Texas summer climate. Here is my 1st post after lurking awhile. You always get back exactly what you put in to it and onto it. I have been a painter for more than 18 years, and have worked with and applied a wide variety of finishes. As with any painting the more you clean down the surface the better it will hold down. It all depends on your spray gun, the surface temp, and the surface being coated. This does not mean that a recommended primer to reducer ratio does not exist. Also the 8:1 ratio is only relevant to the hardener. The hardener will just make a mess if you are not familiar with the product. If you are planning to brush this on then at the most I would use the Japan drier. This is just a good old quality medium alkyd resin with added oil most recently refined soy bean oil (Soya). Although, Rustoleum does offer a primer with this added ingredient. The Rustoleum primer sold at home depot does not contain any fish oil. hardener.Įither the primer by itself, the primer with a splash of the Japan drier, or the primer with the hardener all work very well. (pint hardener) this gives you 8 as in 8 parts primer/ 1 part hardener. Remember the ratio can be explained as 128oz (gal. Mix at 8:1, or 1 gallon of primer to 16oz. I have had great luck with the tractor supply hardener. I red scotchbrite the surface before top coat. It drastically cuts down the drying time, and allows the top coat to be applied that same day. I have also had very good luck using a synthetic enamel hardener with this primer. The recommendations on the Japan drier can should be followed to prevent wrinkling. To accelerate the drying time Japan drier can be added. Just as the primer can says, acetone works great to reduce for general spraying. I use a 50/50 mix of Acetone/Naphtha, when the temp is in the mid 60's to mid 70's.
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